Procedure for Engine Installation

Engine replacement is not too difficult to do on most skis and is basically the reverse of the engine removal procedure. This description is a general one and relies on your memory of how the engine originally was removed. If you have extra parts when finished, find out where they go! Also, a good way to avoid reassembly problems is to make sure to mark where fuel/oil/water hoses and wires went when the engine was removed. Pictures of the steps as you disconnected things can't hurt either !
In this procedure, I skip reconnecting the fuel/oil lines and throttle/choke cables from the rotary assembly. If your rotary valve was damaged and you removed the rotary assembly for machining, you will need to reconnect the lines and cables in the proper places and make sure the oil injection is functioning properly.
You may want to consult a shop manual for your particular ski if you have any doubts about jumping into this project !.

Tools needed:

• Metric socket set, ratchet, and extensions
• Metric allen wrenches
• 10 mm wrenches
• 13mm wrench
• Flat head screwdriver
• Razor knife
• Blue Loctite Thread Locker

Parts needed:

• Small cable ties (Sea Doo)
• Rotary cover o-ring
• Exhaust gasket

1. While the engine is out, inspect your motor mounts and replace any broken/cracked/separated ones. This is also a good time to clean out the hull and get any loose bolts/parts/tools you may have dropped in the removal.

2. Place rags or pads around the fiberglass so you don't scratch the ski upon dropping the engine in. Lift the engine and set above the engine compartment on the rags/pads. If you have a friend around to give a hand, this can be a plus ! Once the engine is setting on the ski, reconnect the starter wire at the starter using a 10mm wrench or socket.

3. Making sure there are no hoses/wires in the way, carefully lower the engine into the ski and align the motor plate onto the motor mounts.

4. If any shims were under the 4 plate corners, replace them in their proper order. Using a 13mm socket with a long extension, temporarily replace the 4 bolts securing the engine plate to the motor mounts. Don't tighten bolts until you have checked the shaft alignment.

5. Locate the 2 large oil lines and reconnect them in their proper location on the crankcase.

6. Providing that the rotary valve is installed and timed properly, install a new o-ring on the rotary cover and place cover/carb assembly into position on the engine. Apply Blue Loctite on the 4 cover bolts and finger tighten all. Once all 4 are in place, you can tighten all 4 to the proper torque. NOTE - If you have removed the oil line form the oil injection, you must make sure to bleed the air out completely when reinstalling the line.

7. Reconnect all water lines to the engine and jet pump in their proper locations. Install zip ties on any lines that you originally cut them off of.

8. Locate the air box and carb support brackets. Using an allen wrench, apply Blue Loctite to allen bolts and reinstall the bracket connecting the engine to carbs if there is one. Apply Blue Loctite and reinstall any allen head bolts holding the lower airbox parts to the carb(s) (make sure to torque to the proper specs). Reinstall the cover of the air box.

9. Reinstall the tuned pipe into its' proper location and align with the manifold flange. It may take a couple tries before you figure out how to rotate/twist it in. Reinstall any retaining clamps that secure the pipe to the engine and apply Blue Loctite to any bolts (13mm) that secure the pipe to the crankcase. Reconnect any small water lines/hoses from the pipe using zip ties. Next, install a new gasket on the exhaust flange and apply Blue Loctite to 4 bolts/nuts securing the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold (tighten to proper torque). Lastly, tighten the clamp where the tuned pipe connects to the (2"-3") exhaust hose using a flat screwdriver.

10. Reinstall and reconnect the battery, reinstalling the black ground wire last. Locate the electrical connections that go from any boxes to the motor and reconnect them in their proper places. If opened, close any waterproof box/magneto cover and make sure they are secure in their proper place. Replace the spark plug wires onto their respective new spark plugs.

11. Take to ski to a dealer and have the shaft alignment checked and adjusted. You can do this yourself if you purchase an alignment tool, but it will be cheaper to go through the dealer.

12. Inspect the seal carrier (if equipped) and make sure the lip seal and bearings are in good condition. If not, repair before reinstalling the driveshaft. Next, reinstall the driveshaft, making sure the boot is on the pto and rubber bumper is installed in the end of shaft. Reinstall metal clamps on pto boot, sealing driveshaft to pto. You can use sea doo metal clamps, but I use the large zip ties, making it easier and cheaper to clamp the boot. Apply grease to the fitting, making sure not to overfill.

13. Replace the jet pump (see pump installation page) if removed.

14. Replace the pto/shaft cover (grey plastic, 2 wing nuts securing).

15. Check for any missed lines/wires and extra parts. If you find any, make sure to place in proper locations and reconnect where necessary before initial firing.

16. If this is a new engine, make sure it is properly broken in. See the break in procedure I use here.