My friends at OSDparts.com have many hard to find parts in stock as well as custom kits for your Sea Doo plus they ship all over the world so check them out for your Sea Doo parts needs!

WANTED
Parts Inventories from overstocked or closing Sea Doo shops. If you have parts or know of a Sea Doo dealer in your area that is closing, contact me at OSDparts.com with the details.

ALSO WANTED
Blown or wrecked Sea Doo watercraft in the Ohio vicinity. If you have one, contact me with description and price.

Have you had a bad experience with a dealer, repair shop, or engine rebuilder? If so, now you can post your experiences here. Hopefully this page will help others avoid the same fate!

OSDparts Items

Complete Carb
Rebuild Kits
For Sea Doo

Is your LCD
Hard to read?

Check out this
Gauge repair kit!

Have VTS on your
1995-up Sea Doo?

NEW Button Kit
Is now available!

Fuel Filter Element

Fits Most 2 Stroke
Carb Sea Doos

1995-1997 Sportster MPEM Conversion
1995 Speedster MPEM Conversion
1996 Speedster MPEM Conversion
1997 Speedster MPEM Conversion
1997 Challenger MPEM Conversion

Complete Pump Housing Kits!
DESS & Other Switches
Driveline Seal Assemblies
SeaDoo Tool Rental!
VTS Boot Upgrade Kit
Anti-Rattle Kits For Older Doos !

Jet Pump Rebuilding Services

New Parts (OSD)

Accessories & More
Drive/Pump
Gaskets
Hull/Body
Electrical
Engine
Fuel/Air Parts
Nuts Bolts Etc…
O-Rings
Misc. Parts

Used Components

OSDparts.com Parts List

Technical Info

Non-Wired MPEM Test

787/947 CB Reservoir Oil
1995-2004 VTS Test Info
4 Stroke Fault Codes
1995 & UP VTS Info
Fuel Economy Chart
Jetboat Engine Ref.
PWC Engine Ref. Chart
Choke Cable Info Chart
Coil Reference Chart
Crankshaft Exploded Views
Driveshaft ID Chart
Engine Torques Specs
Fuel Baffle Chart
Gauge Information
Impeller Info Chart
Kit Info Chart
Mikuni Carb Specs
Mikuni Test Info
MPEM Ref & Prog.
MPEM Test Info
My Opinion on Oil…
Part Numbers List
Rotax Case ID
Rotax Engine Info
Sea Doo Models 1988-2010
Sea Doo Paint Codes
Seat Reference Chart
SD Spark Plug Info
029/358 VTS Module Test
Water Flooded 2 Stroke
Wear Ring Removal

Technical Info

Sea Doo Tool Rental!

www.JetBoating.net

Sea Doo Tips

To avoid expensive
electrical system damage
NEVER
jump start your ski
with a running vehicle!!

Change your pump oil
every 50 hours and
you'll save money in
the long run !

Battery dying in your Trim
equipped 1995 up Sea Doo?
Disconnect your VTS unit.
If that fixes the problem
the module probably has
failed due to moisture.

Every time you have
your engine compartment
open, grab the motor and
give it a pull to make sure
your motor mounts are in
good shape. Broken mounts
can cause driveline and pipe
problems if not caught early!

Save money and time
by doing repairs yourself
instead of using a dealer!

The area above is always changing so check back often as links are added.

Getting a Water Flooded 2 Stroke Running

After being around Sea Doo PWCs and rental businesses for years, I've seen many flooded 2 strokes!
Obviously, the water has to be expelled and the ski rode promptly after you get it running again. Here's how I do it...

First, hook up a 12v cordless booster to the battery. If you don't have one, a battery charger will do. If you don't have a charger, connecting the battery to a car with jumper cables will also do, but don't start the car
NEVER JUMP A SEA DOO WITH A RUNNING AUTO OR YOU'LL FRY THE IGNITION MODULE QUICK!
Next, remove the plugs and spray them with starting fluid or carb cleaner to expel the water off the plugs.
Once the wires are on the grounding posts, put a rag over the head so when water is expelled from the cylinders, it doesn't spray all over you and the surrounding area.
Next, crank it over until a majority of the water is out before then placing your thumb over each plug hole to draw more water out. After that, squirt some premix gas into each cylinder (I use a contact solution bottle to hold it and make it easy to squirt).
Reinstall the plugs and wires then hold wide open while choking and cranking. It should “kick” but may not fire the first time. I usually have to repeat the whole procedure above a couple times but then it will fire and most times will run fine.
Once running, you really need to take it out and ride while doing spins/sharp turns to try and get all the water out of the crankcase.
Finally, once back at the dock and on the trailer, wash the engine compartment down thoroughly, let it dry, then spray it down with lube.
I've never had further problems when I follow those procedures.
One further note though... if you notice the injection oil looking milky from water in the tank, you also need to drain and clean it out as well.

TECH INFO LIST